Jeremy Hackett on Personal Style and Timeless Craftsmanship
In an exclusive interview with Jeremy Hackett, the founder of Hackett London, we delve into the journey from his humble beginnings on Portobello Road to the heights of international acclaim. With his characteristic wit and deep understanding of menswear, Hackett reflects on the timeless appeal of British elegance, the intricate art of bespoke tailoring, and the challenges of maintaining a brand’s core values amidst a fast-paced fashion industry. He shares personal anecdotes, insights on sustainability, and his passion for craftsmanship, illustrating why Hackett London remains a beacon of style and quality. As Hackett himself notes, “We’re not about seasonal changes, it’s not fashion – it’s all about style, fit, quality, and craftsmanship. That’s what we do here.”
From your early days on Portobello Road to becoming a global brand, what has been the most surprising lesson you’ve learned about the fashion industry?
The fashion industry is relentless and fickle and what surprises me is that after 40 years I am still here! I have learnt to ignore the passing whims of high fashion and avoid its foibles relying on my own sense of style and point of view because without that belief Hackett would merely be just another retailer.
Hackett London is synonymous with British elegance. How do you see the evolution of British style, and how does your brand balance tradition with modern trends?
British style is renowned worldwide for its understated classical way of dressing. Indeed in France, they celebrate ‘Le Style Anglais’ in Spain the famous department store ‘El Corte Ingles’ translates to ‘The Court of the English’.
In Italy, they manage to dress more British than us Brits and in Japan and America the British style is widely appreciated. When I look back at Hackett in the early days I appreciate how much we have evolved from what was a strictly traditional brand to one which is more relaxed and in step with our customers changing expectations. I like to think that we take from fashion and take from it only that which is appropriate for Hackett. It is a fine balance to remain relevant without sacrificing our values.
Can you share a behind-the-scenes story of a particular piece or collection that holds a special place in your heart, and why it stands out to you?
Last year to celebrate the Coronation of His Majesty the King I made a pocket square. In the days when I sold second-hand clothes, I had kept several old Coronation Hankies from which I took various elements to create the pocket square. I gave the idea to our design team to draw up and presented the artwork to His Majesty who was delighted with the outcome.
We went on to manufacture 2023 (the year of the Coronation) wool/ silk pocket squares donating all the profits to The King’s chosen charities. It was something that I was very proud to have produced and who knows in years to come like my vintage coronation squares they too may end up on a stall in Portobello Road.
In your opinion, what role does sustainability play in the future of luxury menswear, and how is Hackett London adapting to this shift?
I believe that luxury brands are in a position that enables them to be able to source their products from manufacturers that follow the guidelines of sustainability as they are more able to absorb the higher costs that in turn maintain their reputations.
A while ago Hackett set up a sustainability department to ensure that reputable suppliers are aware of the high standards demanded. On the Hackett website, there is a section devoted to how we are tackling sustainability issues. It is the duty and responsibility of all luxury brands for the sake of the planet. Little did I know at the time but in the early days of Hackett when we sold second-hand clothes we were at the forefront of recycling and sustainability.
Many entrepreneurs face moments of doubt and challenge. Can you describe a pivotal moment in your career where you had to navigate a significant obstacle, and how you overcame it?
I think that if I had any doubts I probably wouldn’t have started Hackett. I was so caught up in the excitement of developing the brand and doing something that I enjoyed along with the success that came with it that I forgot about the bottom line and the ever-increasing overheads…Oops!.
The doubts and challenges came later, after a few rash expansion plans. It was clear that taking the brand to the next stage required a more corporate approach. It was a real wrench to sell the business but in the long run, it has turned out for the best and I still have the opportunity to be involved in the bits that I enjoy.
If you could collaborate with any historical figure from the world of fashion or beyond, who would it be and what kind of project would you envision?
This may be considered a controversial choice but collaborating with The Duke of Windsor would be amazing. A man who had little common sense but perfect dress sense. I would like to photograph him for a Hackett photo shoot because not only was he handsome but he just knew how to wear clothes effortlessly. I suspect that he may have been a bit of a diva but I could handle that, take my friend the actor Jos Van Tyler (only joking) I can envisage photographing him in the South of France, on Safari in Africa and in the country in England. What an incredible fantasy it would be.
Portugal is known for its rich textile heritage. How do you perceive the influence of Portuguese craftsmanship on global fashion, and do you see any potential collaborations or inspirations emerging from this connection?
At Hackett we work closely with several Portuguese manufacturers who make outerwear, shirts, casual shoes and sportswear items. They are competitively priced without sacrificing quality.
We like collaborations, particularly in areas where we have no expertise such as watches having previously worked with Tag Heuer and Swatch and will soon launch a watch with another brand, that we will launch in the Autumn but at the moment it is a secret. I have noticed that more and more brands are sourcing from Portugal. I will need to research more about a possible collaboration with Portugal.
