Islands, by their very nature, embody a sense of mystery and isolation. But these isolated patches of land, surrounded by vast oceans, have often turned this geographical seclusion into a remarkable advantage, especially when it comes to wine production. The wines produced on islands have a distinctive character, a symphony of flavours that speak to their unique terroirs, climates, and age-old traditions. The combination of volcanic soil, sea breezes, and microclimates create wines that stand apart from those on the mainland. Today, we explore the rich winemaking traditions of several islands known for their high-quality and revered wines, starting from our very own Portuguese gem—Madeira—and venturing across Europe to Sicily and beyond.
Madeira
A Wine of Richness and Resilience
The story of Madeira wine is as old as the island itself, deeply rooted in history. Located off the northwest coast of Africa, Madeira’s volcanic soils and subtropical climate create ideal conditions for producing wines that are both robust and long-lasting. Perhaps the most distinctive characteristic of Madeira wine is its ageing process. The wine undergoes a heating method called estufagem, where it is heated to mimic the conditions of long sea voyages. This process, combined with naturally high acidity, gives Madeira wines their unique flavour profile—often described as rich, nutty, and caramel-like, with hints of dried fruit.
What makes Madeira stand out globally is its ability to age gracefully for decades, sometimes centuries. The island’s wines, particularly its fortified varieties, are celebrated for their resilience, with bottles from the 18th and 19th centuries still drinkable today. Madeira is not just a wine; it’s a piece of living history, a testament to the island’s winemaking prowess.
Blandy’s, 1957 Bual
Pairs with: Thai cuisine or an aperitif, served chilled.
The Unique Allure of Island wines offer a fascinating exploration of nature’s diversity, shaped by the unique environmental conditions of each location. From the volcanic soils of Madeira and Sicily to the wind-swept vines of Santorini and the Azores, these wines are not just products of the land but reflections of the islands themselves—bold, resilient, and full of character. As global appreciation for these wines continues to grow, they remain a testament to the enduring legacy of island winemaking.
Sip by sip, they transport us to far-flung shores, where tradition meets innovation, and nature leaves an indelible mark on every vintage.
Sicily
The Heart of Mediterranean Wine
Another island renowned for its extraordinary wines is Sicily. Nestled in the heart of the Mediterranean, Sicily’s volcanic soils, particularly from Mount Etna, produce wines of unmatched complexity. The island’s winemakers have mastered the art of viticulture over centuries, with a strong emphasis on indigenous grape varieties such as Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, and Carricante.
Sicilian wines are often praised for their bold flavours, with deep reds that have a strong, earthy character, and whites that are fresh, mineral-driven, and aromatic. The Etna region, in particular, has garnered global attention for its wines, where the volcanic soils and extreme altitudes give the grapes a unique structure and minerality. Wines from Etna often exhibit smoky undertones, thanks to the volcanic ash in the soil, making each sip a reflection of the island’s fiery temperament.
Tenuta delle Terre Nere, La Vigna di Don Peppino 2006
Pairs with: Games and traditional charcuterie
Santorini
A Wine Born of Volcanic Ash
Moving to the Aegean Sea, the Greek island of Santorini offers a remarkable story of survival and renewal. The island’s wines are produced from vines grown in volcanic soil, the legacy of a cataclysmic eruption over 3,600 years ago. Santorini’s dry and windy conditions force the vines to struggle for nutrients, resulting in low yields but highly concentrated grapes.
The most famous variety from Santorini is Assyrtiko, a white grape that produces wines with high acidity, a crisp mineral backbone, and flavours of citrus and stone fruit. The wines are often aged in oak, giving them added complexity and a rich mouthfeel. Santorini’s wine industry has captured the attention of sommeliers worldwide, making it one of Greece’s top wine-producing regions.
Estate Argyros, Cuvee Evdemon 2017
Pairs with: Simple grilled fish with olive oil dressing, light salads with Feta cheese
Tenerife
Spain’s Secret Wine Haven
Tenerife, part of Spain’s Canary Islands, is an often-overlooked wine destination, yet it produces some of the most exciting wines in Europe. Its dramatic volcanic landscape offers a unique terroir where vines are grown in black lava soils. The combination of cool Atlantic breezes and high-altitude vineyards helps create wines that are elegant, fresh, and full of character.
The island’s listán negro grape is particularly noteworthy, yielding light reds with earthy and spicy notes. Tenerife’s winemakers are increasingly gaining recognition for their commitment to organic practices and preserving ancient vines, some of which are pre-phylloxera, giving their wines a historical depth.
Atlante, Listan Blanco 2018
Pairs with: Shellfish, clams , poultry and local dishes
Corsica
The Island of Mediterranean Elegance
The French island of Corsica offers a blend of French and Italian winemaking traditions. Its rugged terrain and sun-drenched climate give rise to wines that are fresh, aromatic, and structured. Vermentino, one of the island’s signature white grape varieties, produces wines with vibrant acidity, floral notes, and a distinct minerality from the island’s granite and limestone soils.
Corsican wines are also known for their ability to age well, with red varieties such as Niellucciu (related to Tuscany’s Sangiovese) offering powerful yet balanced wines. The island’s wines have a growing reputation for their elegance and ability to express the unique Mediterranean terroir.
Granite, “174” 2020
Pairs with: Grilled octopus with earthy vegetables, beetroot and light meat
The Azores
The Atlantic’s Hidden Treasure
Finally, the Azores, another Portuguese gem, is emerging as a frontier for high-quality wine production. Located in the middle of the Atlantic, the Azores offer a cool maritime climate, with vines often grown in tiny, walled plots to protect them from harsh ocean winds. The volcanic soils give the wines a fresh, saline quality that reflects their island origins.
Wines from the Azores, particularly the white varieties like Arinto and Verdelho, are known for their vibrant acidity and mineral-driven profiles. They are a true expression of the Atlantic, capturing the essence of the sea in every glass.
Antonio Maçanita, 2021
Pairs with: Dry and salty food, seafood or smoked fish
